There is an old joke in the Corps about the applicant who, being told by a recruiter that he would be going to Parris Island, replied, "Great. I always wanted to go to France." While it is not at all unusual for today's Marines to visit France while on deployment to the Mediterranean or other parts of Europe, only a select few are assigned to duty in Paris. Nearly all of them are Marine Security Guards serving at the American Embassy.

What is duty like in Paris, quite probably the most beautiful and romantic city in the world? It depends on whom you talk to. For some, it is a dream come true while others actually prefer to serve in a comparatively backward, third-world country like many of the poverty-stricken countries of Africa. And both types of individual feel their reasons are very valid.

As for Paris, many of the attractions are quite obvious. There are large numbers of historical and cultural sites to be found in and around the city. In addition, the short distances and excellent roads and transportation systems make visiting other areas of France and many other European countries a breeze. Popular day trips are to Normandy, Versailles, Fontainebleu and the battlefield at Belleau Wood, a mecca for Marines.

Those embassy Marines who try hard enough can become conversant, if not fluent, in French. Military history buffs are able to study great battlefields from World War II back to antiquity, more than they'll ever have time to see. On the other end of the spectrum, Paris is an art lover's paradise, with the Louvre, the Orsay Museum, the Invalides and some 100 other museums, 200 art galleries and a steady stream of temporary exhibits. Chateaux, palaces, castles and magnificent cathedrals dot the countryside throughout France.

What functions are performed by the Marine Security Guards while on duty in Paris? Other than a more abundant ration of ceremonial appearances, the duty is essentially the same as in other embassy posts throughout the world. MSG Paris also is a larger detachment than most with more posts to man.

The detachment has a table of organization strength of two staff noncommissioned officers and 24 watchstanders. The actual strength varies. When this story was being researched, they were short seven Marines, but replacements were on the way.

Operational control of the detachment comes under the Department of State's regional security officer, Andy Colantonio. The Marines stand seven posts, not all of which are manned for 24 hours. The posts are located in the embassy itself and in three other embassy buildings. Access into three of the four buildings is controlled by Marines.

The norm for the duty section is eight hours on and 16 off. In addition, there are 10 days a month off. It is possible to take three or four days off and visit such places as Brussels, Belgium; Dublin, Ireland; or London. The guard posts are all interior, with local private guards handling the exteriors and French gendarmes around the perimeter.

The land occupied by the embassy is some of the most coveted in the world. It lies between the luxurious Crillon Hotel and the Presidential Palace. The Place de la Concorde is to the left front of the embassy, and in a couple of minutes you can be strolling to the right along the Champs Élysées toward the Arc de Triomphe. To the left you can walk through the Garden of Tuileries down to the Louvre.

The noncommissioned officer in charge of the detachment is Master Sergeant Richard Doxtader, a combat engineer by military occupational specialty. Born in Michigan, he grew up in Phoenix. He reported to Marine Security Guard School at Quantico, Va., from the 1st Combat Engineer Battalion at Camp Pendleton, Calif. His first post was Tel Aviv, Israel, in July 1996, followed by Paris in September 1997.

"It's the best duty in the Corps. I wish I had come out sooner," he said. "It's the only billet in the Marine Corps where a staff NCO is the commander.

"Staff NCOs who want to go on MSG duty should have some computer skills, administrative knowledge and leadership. Forget the 9-to-5 job, you're always playing catch-up, particularly if it is a larger, more complex detachment," the "Top" said. "You have a lot of balls in the air, and you have to know which ones not to drop.

"For those with children, the schools throughout most or all of the [MSG] program are excellent. They are usually small schools, and they follow a curriculum established by the Department of Defense," he said. "For the younger Marines, I believe the biggest thing about MSG duty is the travel. They are ambassadors in blue who represent the United States wherever they go. While on the program they should be able to get an [associate of arts] degree," Top Doxtader said.

He added, "It is possible for them to save $10,000 to $20,000 while on the program. At some posts they can live mainly off of the COLA [cost-of-living allowance] and save the rest. The COLA here is higher because of the very high price on goods and services. For example, the cook at the Marine House, who might be paid $50 a month at some posts, costs $2,400 a month in Paris." The bottom line, according to MSgt Doxtader, is that MSG duty is a great opportunity for Marines who are mature and motivated. "You come out of school motivated, but there are a lot of distractions, and you have to remain focused," he said.

Top Doxtader and his assistant detachment commander or "A-slash," Staff Sergeant Kenny Hopkins, and their families live in the State Department's Neuilly Compound, about 31/2 miles from the embassy. The remainder of the Marines live in another State Department compound across the road from the famous Bois de Boulogne, a huge wooded park on the outskirts of Paris, to the west. It is about 51/2 miles to the embassy and can take from 15 to 45 minutes to drive, depending on the time of day and traffic.

You might think that the MSGs would come mainly from infantry or military police fields, but they don't. You are likely to find most military occupational skills represented on embassy duty.

Sergeant Ryan Faught of Medina, Ohio, is a HAWK missile operator who came to MSG duty from Marine Corps Air Station, Yuma, Ariz. At the time of the interview he had about 90 days to the end of his enlistment and planned to enroll at Kent State University in Ohio to study computer illustration. While on embassy duty, his primary assignments were in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, and Lisbon, Portugal. He wrapped up his tour with a temporary additional duty assignment to Paris. He said, "When I go to school, I will use the time management, leadership and organizational skills I learned in my 41/2 years in the Corps."

Sgt Barrett Broyles' military specialty is traffic management. He entered the MSG program from Headquarters and Service Bn, Marine Corps Base, Okinawa, at Camp Kinser. His first assignment was to Kathmandu, Nepal, a post with a detachment commander and five watchstanders. Paris was a huge change. Sgt Broyles has the critically important additional duty (which rotates periodically) of noncommissioned officer in charge of the mess. He is responsible for collecting the mess bills each month, which cover the cook's salary and his local taxes, food costs and other incidentals. The mess budget is about $5,000 per month compared to $500 at Sgt Broyles' last assignment. His duties also include making out the menu following the applicable order from Marine Security Guard Bn in Quantico. "It's pretty tough in a large detachment, knowing what they like and with people changing continually," he said. Help is provided by two assistants and a mess advisory board, which larger detachments have.

Milk and produce are delivered locally while a supply run is made twice a month to SHAPE (Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Powers, Europe) near Brussels, for the majority of other food items and other household supplies. Who does the cooking at Marine House? The chef is Lahadi Rouabah, who is in his third year. Prior to that he cooked in "D" Building, another embassy property. With a chef skilled in preparing many great French dishes, what's on the menu? Mostly American dishes such as chicken nuggets, pizza, etc. "Breakfast is to order, lunch is to order, and the evening meal is from the menu, but is American," he said. "I am very proud to work for the Marines," said Rouabah. "Everyone in France knows they are the finest military service in the world."

The duty is very demanding, according to Sgt Broyles, with many restrictions. The hardest part is keeping focused. "But for Marines who want to see the world, it's the best," he said. "The travel is unbelievable." Since entering MSG duty, he has been to more than 19 countries on personal travel or on duty. Since arriving in Paris, in addition to travel in France and Belgium, he has visited Geneva, Switzerland and London, as well as Berlin and Ramstein, Germany. Paris is busy with a steady stream of visitors including the President, Secretary of State, the Commandant of the Marine Corps and many other dignataries.

"One thing about the program is that it can give you a dilemma. Really, the experience you gain through working with the diplomatic community gives you an edge going into another governmental field. I love the Marine Corps, but I am looking at my options," Broyles said.

Marine House is one of three apartment buildings in the embassy compound. The other two are for embassy personnel and their families. It is not luxurious by any means, but appears to be very comfortable and functional. There are four floors with the ground floor having a TV room, laundry with washers and dryers, billiards and game room, bar and movie room, and a weapons simulator (9-mm. pistol, shotgun and M16 rifle) for training. The first floor (our second) holds the dining room, galley, gym and two apartments of four bedrooms each. The upper floors are devoted to apartments and a storage area.

Marine House hosts several functions during the year for embassy personnel and their families. Events such as a Fourth of July barbecue with volleyball, children's games, etc., which drew more than 200 people, have been popular. Transportation to and from the embassy is no problem. An embassy vehicle and five drivers provide a ride 24 hours a day.

Corporal Melisa Laredo was the only woman assigned to the detachment at the time. She is an administrative clerk by MOS and entered the program from First Force Service Support Group at Camp Pendleton. Paris is her first post. Why did she choose MSG duty? "I always wanted to travel. I have been to Hong Kong, Beijing, Germany and Belgium. It's great duty being able to experience different cultures and interact with people. And, here, I have all my 'big brothers,' " she said.

"You need to be able to adapt well, particularly with no other females. It can be lonely. If you need that, you shouldn't go, but if you can adapt, it's great," she added.

"Here, I'm doing things I've always wanted to do. Off duty, I take dance lessons and acting. For my second post I'd like to go to South America. I would like to learn more of my heritage and improve my Spanish," she said.

The detachment's A-slash or assistant NCOIC is SSgt Kenny Hopkins, a traffic management operations chief by MOS. Basically, his duties pick up at wherever Top Doxtader's stop. When the Top is away, he picks up his duties also.

"It's demanding, but rewarding also, great duty for a staff NCO. I highly recommend it to all Marines. You have to have a positive attitude and be able to adapt to the environment you're in. The duty presents challenges but many rewards also."

SSgt Hopkins and his wife, Larea, a former Marine who had five years in the Corps, live in a three-bedroom apartment that they feel is quite nice. Staff NCOs in Paris can count on lots of visits from family and friends. They make periodic runs to SHAPE, 21/2 to 3 hours away, for commissary and PX items. Dental and medical needs are also treated there, although using the American Hospital in Paris is an option.

He believes the biggest advantage of MSG duty is being able to see parts of the world other Marines don't get to see. Also, there is much more responsibility than on normal duty assignments.

"Some of the Marines interact with the locals and others with the diplomatic community. But it's all educational and worthwhile," he said. Travel opportunities are abundant. He and his wife went to Biarritz over the Labor Day weekend. "We have also been to the south of France, England, Ireland, Spain and to Brussels," he said. "If you can stay balanced, you can't match the duty."

There is always an element of danger on embassy duty. This was brought home sharply to Sgt Shawn Jackson last year. Jackson is an artilleryman, who was stationed at the Marine Corps Air Ground Combat Center at Twentynine Palms, Calif., in "India" Battery, 3d Bn, 11th Marines when he reported to MSG School. His first post was to Nairobi, Kenya, in March 1997, followed by assignment to Paris in May 1998.

"In August, I had just returned from leave, and they told me my prior embassy had been blown up and that I was being sent down there to help out. I was really worried because I knew everyone there. I was sent first to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, for about three days and then to Nairobi.

"It was very hectic, a cold, eerie feeling. The diplomatic community really came together, but it wasn't the same. It was no longer the beautiful Kenya it had been before.

"I would rather serve in a third-world country. The American and diplomatic communities are much closer. You develop really close friends. I lost several friends in the bombing.

"I learned a lot in that country. Africa is different in many ways from what you see on TV. It has much to offer if you look for it," he said. "MSG is a great opportunity to advance yourself, and you learn that the world doesn't stop at the borders of the U.S. It's what you make of it. "

All of Nairobi was affected. All of those there suffered. All helped to recover. It was a good feeling to see the other embassies fly their flags at half-mast, out of respect," he concluded.

And there you have it--from the beauty and joie de vie of Paris to the suffering in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam in the aftermath of the bombings. It pretty well sums up embassy duty. There are the glamour, excitement and adventure of the travel and assignment to exotic lands. But always lurking in the background is the inherent danger of being out on the front lines of democracy.

That's why U.S. Marines are chosen to guard American embassies.